The patient is hopeless

The patient is hopeless, originally uploaded by haruspex.

Day Two: Tuesday 11 April 2006

Slept in till 10am without hardly realising, since our hotel room is almost pitch black with the shutter closed. Sandwich and coffee for breakfast (not very Japanese!) at a "French" chain coffee shop called DuTour. Then off to Asakusa to see the Buddhist Sensoji Temple. The oldest temple in Tokyo, built in 628. Bought a random I Ching fortune. R got a great one, but I got the exact reverse:

No. 59 BAD FORTUNE
Your mind is unsettled wondering to leave or to stay. All your deeds and works are both indefinite, suffering from so many troubles. The moon want to be clear and brilliant but dark clouds come to cover it. Your mind doesn't stay sill and will loose right way.

*Your request will be hare to be granted. *The patient is hopeless. *The lost article will not be found. *Let's stop building a new house and removal. *Stop starting a trip. *Stop marriage of any kind and new employment.

Not a very good omen for someone on the 2nd day of a 6-month overseas trip!

Taking the train to Yoyogi, the rain start to come down quite heavily. We walked to the Meiji Jigu Shrine, built in 1920 to commemorate the reign of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. To enter you have to walk down a path through a forest of cedar trees. In the rain and mist it was all very Totoro. We definitely needed a big leaf on a stalk to use as an umbrella. It was all so beautiful and serene.

It was a completely different scene at nearby Harajuku. We walked along the famous Takeshita Dori - the colourful laneway packed with teen and fashion stores - including lots of punk, goth and lolita clothing stores. Lunched at the Double Tall Cafe on Omotesando (mexican on rice - again not very Japanese).

More window shopping down Meiji Dori. Found the Pink Dragon rockabilly store with crazy interior design mentioned in Tokyo Damage Report - the website which we're basing much of our Tokyo itinerary on. Wandered around Shibuya a little more before taking the train back to the hotel, to drink some Kirin beer, upload some photos to flickr and write up my journal.

Day One: Tokyo

Yanaka Cemetery, Tokyo, originally uploaded by haruspex.

Monday 10 April 2006

The plane landed in Tokyo at 6.35am. It was a chilly 12 degrees. The train to Ueno took about one hour and cost 1,000 yen (about $12). We had booked our hotel (The Oak) on the internet but couldn't check in till 3.00pm - so we dumped our bags there and wandered out to Ueno Park. The height of the cherry blossom season was the previous week, but thre were still some late bloomers and we took photos, along with loads of othr tourists. The park also had a lot of homeless people camping out in little tent cities, plus various museums, a lake and temples. The weirdest sighting was a guy feeding the stray cats bowls of 2 minute noodles. We visited the Toshogu Shrine and the Kiyomizu Kannodo Temple. Walking around the boat pond we saw the Soffitel hotel "Christmas Tree" tower.

Heading back towards the station we explored Ameyoko Street - packed with little stalls selling everything - including dried squid and fish. Walked along the train line towards Nippori to the Yanaka Cemetery. Really cool graves and tombs. The weather stayed pretty dismal - overcast and cold and spitting rain. Walked back to the hotel through Ueno Park, stopping for lunch of ramen at a noodle bar on Asakusa-dori. I had the Wakame Ramen, full of spinach and a bit of pork.

Back to the hotel to check in properly and have a hot shower in the teeny tiny bathroom - about the size of an airplane lavatory. We got funky japanese robes and slippers to wear though.

After dark we took the train to Shinjuku. The Japanese train system is so effecient and on time. Plus they have heating under the seats that keeps your bum warm. Neon craziness in Shinjuku. Wandered around the Kabukicho area. Found the Disc Union record store with a whole level of Japanese psych and underground CDs. Wandered into the red light district - all very seedy. We hung around the entrance of the Shinjuku Station, in front of the big TV screen to people watch. A lot of guys are going for the half bleached, feathered mullet look. Back to the hotel and in bed by 10pm. It was a very full day, and still a bit hard to believe this is the first day of our 6-month trip.

BlueBells

with bells on, originally uploaded by haruspex.

At the Toshogu Shrine, Ueno Park, Tokyo

Toshogu Shrine

Toshogu Shrine, originally uploaded by haruspex.

Monday 10 April 2006
Tokyo

The original shrine is said to have been built in 1627 by the warrior Todo Takatora, to enshrine the deified Tokugawa Ieyasu (Toshogu) - first shogun who wrested power away from the Emperor and established Edo as the capital.
The name "Toshogu" is a royal title which translates as "Light of the East" or "Sun god of the east".
The Haiden is the main structure and the hall of worship. This is where the priests and shrine maidens participate in the ceremonies of the Toshogu.